Square Board Assembly

340W & 470W “Square” Kit

In each kit you will find the following – please Contact Us if there are any parts missing:

2 x High Light 420 LED grow panels
2 x Anodsised aluminium Heatsinks (480mm x 206mm)
1 x Mean Well HLG-320-48 A driver (340W Kit) or HLG-480-54 A driver (470W Kit) with quick-release waterproof male connector
2 x 480mm aluminium tie-bars (one with 16mm connector mount hole)
2 x Black cable ties
1 x 4.5m German LAPP cable with quick-release male and female waterproof connectors
1 x Dual TE plug splitter (loom) with quick-release female waterproof connector and 16mm locking ring
4 x Stainless 6mm eye bolts (for hangers)
4 x Stainless 6mm x 12mm mushroom head bolts
4 x 6mm washers
12 x 6mm nuts
24 x M3 mounting screws
2 x High Light Stainless Hangars

Frame assembly

The aluminium tie-bars should bolt the two heatsinks together with the outer lip of each tie-bar facing downwards (in the direction of the LEDs). This will allow you to place the fixture on a flat surface without the LEDs resting on anything. The outer lip also protects the loom wiring (see below).

The 6mm eye bolts go on each corner – you will use these later to hang the fixture with the supplied stainless steel hangers. Thread one 6mm nut on first, then push the eye bolt through the heatsink and aluminium tie-bar before fixing the washer and remaining 6mm bolt on the eye bolt. No spanner is required for the top nut as the heatsink fins will keep it in place. Use a spanner to tighten the lower bolt. Once tightened, the bottom 6mm nut should have no threads showing (the bottom of the eye-bolt should be flush with the nut), so you may need to adjust the height of the top nuts to ensure all eye bolts are even.

Once all four eye bolts are in place you can fix the 6mm mushroom head bolts with a screwdriver. Again, the heatsink fins will keep the 6mm top nut in place (no spanner required) as you tighten the mushroom head bolt. The mushroom head bolts slot through the heatsinks and tie-bars in the opposite direction to the eye bolts.

Mount Loom

Push the white TE connectors through the 16mm hole in the aluminium tie-bar one connector at a time (don’t try to push both through at once – they will not fit). Once the main body of the loom is in place, push the white connectors through the 16mm locking nut (one at a time) and then thread the locking nut onto the black connector body and tighten with your fingers.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN LOCKING RING

Only tighten plastic ring with a spanner 1/4 of a turn so that it is snug. If you overtighten, you make damage plastic threads.

LED Panel to Heatsink

The High Light 420 LED panels can now be screwed to the heatsinks using the supplied M3 screws. Use the black circles in the middle of the panel as a guide to centering the screws so that the panels fit exactly on to the heatsinks. Tighten screws until they are snug, but not overly tight.

BE CAREFUL

There is a risk of damaging the LEDs when you screw the boards to the heatsinks. Ensure that the screwdriver is the correct size and hold the screw with thumb and forefinger whilst tightening to prevent the screwdriver from jumping out of its slot and hitting an LED. Work slowly and carefully.

Once in place, you can connect the boards. Again, be careful to hold each board connector with one hand as you push the plug in until it snaps into place. The plug will be a tight fit and it is important that you hold the connector on the board when plugging and unplugging to ensure it does not break from excessive force.

Once connected, you may use the supplied cable ties to hold the wiring loom in place. Push the cable ties through the 4mm holes in the tie-bar and secure the wiring to the frame. The finished connectors should look like the photos above and below.

Finished Frame

The complete fixture should look like the photos above and below. It is now ready to hang in your grow area. Once the fixture is mounted you may connect the main DC cable by plugging one end into the fixture (below) and the other end into the driver.

Connect the Driver

There is a quick-release tab on top of each cable connector that can be pressed down to release the connector. The male end of the driver cable plugs into the fixture whilst the female end plugs into the driver.

DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON CONNECTOR

Ensure that driver cable is not bent at an excessive angle so as to put unwanted side pressure on the connector fitting.

Connect an External Dimmer

If you have bought the optional Mean Well AB driver with an external Dimmer, simply conect the blue wire to the positive (+) terminal and the white wire to the negative (–) terminal. Note: Dimmer is not waterproof, so please keep away from moisture.

No Dimmer, No Problem

If you do not wish to use an external dimmer with an AB driver, place each of the supplied heatshrink caps over the blue and white dimmer wires and use a heat source (hair drier, cigarette lighter, gas burner etc) to shrink the caps and seal the wires. Once properly shrunk, wires will be waterproof. You may notice small globs of clear glue at each end of the caps after being heat-shrunk – this is normal.

Adjust Driver

You can adjust the voltage (Vo) and current (Io) on the driver by removing the black rubber dust caps and inserting a small screwdriver (phillips head or flathead) into each slot.

On some drivers (ELG, XLG) the adjustment dials are on the bottom of the driver. On HLG drivers the dials are on top.

Locate internal dial with screwdriver and GENTLY turn clockwise to set maximum voltage and current. Turn anti-clockwise to dim. Normally voltage (Vo) is set to maximum and current (Io) is used to dim. If further dimming is required, voltage can also be dimmed.

When both Vo and Io dials are set, the optional external dimmer (potentiometer) can be used to dim the driver. Please note that the onboard dial will set the maximum current and that the external dimmer will not exceed this setting. If more current is required, the onboard current dial must be increased.